The thing women expect to see from Alberta Ferretti—a slew of fluttery, decorated chiffon evening dresses—was the one thing she made them wait for until the very last look. Instead, her primary focus for fall was on doing something for “a dynamic woman; changing the proportion, and using color and patterns that are not too baroque.” Backstage, she herself was wearing a black crepe tunic over slim matching pants—the template of the silhouette she worked for three quarters of her collection.