If there’s been one commonality among the models in Paris so far it’s that they’ve been somewhat forgettable, anonymous, really, and on top of it, they’ve all looked fairly young. At least Zac Posen cast women, and a relatively wide range of beauties at that. Carmen, Jourdan, Crystal Renn, Stam, Aminata, Karlie, and Melodie all strut and all female form, amplified by Posen’s super-, sometimes too-constrained silhouette. He referred to his approach as a return to shape, cut, and tailoring (“ergonomic” fashion, as he said) and the clothes were indeed body conscious. The clean, simple, long-sleeved, double-face wool dresses in navy and in pale matte sequins were a reprieve from the drama and oft-out-there inspirations that have whipped him into a frenzy in the past. He also restrained himself against the cocktail mania that seemed to have taken over by offering several day looks including slim, cropped pants and nipped–waist wool jackets that were, for the most part, free of any funny business. But just when you thought Posen may have tamed his desire for over the top, out comes an aggressive, strapless, leather and python dress (saying it’s tight would only be stating the obvious). It’s Posen’s second season in Paris and he said before his show that working here has allowed him to incorporate more skilled technique and tailoring into his designs. He may think so, but there was a problem here with fit. We know these clothes are meant to be tight, but that’s no reason to have those womanly bodies fighting against the fabric.

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